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tv   Planet A  Deutsche Welle  April 30, 2024 1:15am-1:31am CEST

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interest ceasefire, offer lincoln is on a, towards the middle east, the broker, a truce agreement between israel and some us that's all we have time for at this hour. you can find out more online at w dot com. so you can use implants, the do you big ultima video companies play a role in the destruction of the rain forest. the letter for luxury cost often comes from illegal capital funds in the m, as in yet the supply chains don't matter to the deal industry. the illegal as a starts may said on dw, like buying new clothes, don't worry, you're not alone and shopping. it's never been easier. fashions gotten faster and
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more disposable every year. roughly $100000000000.00 garments are produced and the majority of them end up in a landfill within a year. and that looks about as bleak as you'd expect. but new technologies could allow us to trim that number significant. could they turn our towering heaps of distorted textiles, into useful green materials and help cut down on this insane waste? and how hard could it really be to recycle close? good news for all the optimists out there. the fashion industry has a boundless room for improvement, especially since the rise of fast fashion, which we outlined in this report. roughly 10 percent of all global carbon emission stem from the textile industry. it's also incredibly resource intensive guzzling up roughly not 90000000000 cubic meters water annually. that's 4 percent of global
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fresh water usage. and a lot more than water goes into producing our cloves, almost always diesel. but he does go through heavy, heavy, the chemical processes to make them the way they are today. whether it's finishing, whether it's dying, priyanka kind of collaborate with brands and producers to foster sustainable innovation in fashion. which is why it is mostly not even the nation between those andre di biodegradable and it takes sometimes over 200 years for these materials to buy it as a degrade in the industrial. and that's a big problem because we produce a whole lot of textile waste. in the us, the text always has grown 80 percent since the year 2000 rachael to be run circular services group, which supports industry and government and reaching sustainability goals. it is our fastest growing waste stream we send over $30000000000.00 pounds of tech styles to
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landfill every year in the us alone. most of our old clothes end up in landfills what doesn't is frequently burned and sold stock and donated old clothing are frequently shipped to the table south for resale, such as here. and i'm gonna, we're 40 percent of what arrives is actually considered trash on arrival. the us ends more than 600000000 kilograms of used clothing abroad every year, largely to the rest of the americas or europe exports more than 1500000000 kilos. with much of it ending up in africa waste in these regions, winds up being dumps burned or polluting oceans and waterways. tech style waste isn't just old. well worn clothes that are ready for retirement. it also includes excess stock in the scraps generated during production. less than one percent of the some of the the, the spike going today. which means all of this is going somewhere. when we collect close there, primarily going to be sorted for reuse. that's the highest value. some of those
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plus may be down cycled into insulation. some may be sold as wiper rags and then a small portion can be mechanically recycled. but mechanical recycling has its limitations. in 2024 mechanical recycling is the best option we have and that would shopping close up and spinning them into new fibers is way better than landfills. it often means that degradation and quality, and it's rare that such materials can be recycled again. but that could change soon . there are a bunch of exciting new recycling companies, boasting new technology bottling for funding, and hoping to tailor a future for tech. so it's chemical recycling or text. those are broken down to the molecular level and then rebuilt into a range materials is being counted as a better solution. while some companies only recycle cotton australia is blocked, techs can recycle blended material treading waste and then chemically breaking down
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assignments and separating polyester from cellulose. a key natural or synthetic cotton polyester is converted into pellets which can be used for textiles or us materials and constructions, all cellulose. it's turned into clay that has use cases in textiles, agriculture and even packaging. the flexibility is intentional. i would never want to be beholden from my outtakes just to one brand, because i know how badly those those brands can be. hi, adrian jones, co founded blocked, techs in 2018. wait, this, the block techs to have that takes that can be useful to many robs and just be useful to want. i think that's been a real difference for us in the industry. everybody's is preoccupied with making more textiles. log texts recently announced an expansion of capacity to $10000.00 tons a year. berlin's refresh, global also emphasizes flexibility using a biotech approach that to you. it breaks down and sanitized its textile waste,
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creating 3 raw materials, no, no, cellulose. ethanol and sanitized tech style pump. through refresh global's partners, these materials are used to make anything ranging from furniture to bike frames, to ethanol based cosmetics. refresh global is a newer company, even many competitors and plans on developing a network of smaller facilities that can be developed quickly and flexibly with partners. that is a very different tack than sweden's renew cell. one of the world's biggest chemical tech stall recyclers. it was among the 1st building, industrial scale, commercial text, all recycling facilities. here context i was shredded into a slurry, separated from any contaminants, and then dried into sheets of what they called circulars, circular, cellulose, which could replace bridge and materials like cotton, oil or wood in the production of new high quality textiles. going down to the molecular level helps maintain quality and renew,
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so we'll set it circulars can go through the recycling process. 7 times there were limitations though, they could only recycle waste that's 95 percent. or if you're caught and meeting lots of what's going land towards wasn't eligible in the 1st place. for new cells, recycling plant opened in 2022 with a capacity to recycle 60000 tons annually and room to expand the 120000. but there's a reason on using the past tense here, the renew cells and they should meet a beacon in the industry that wasn't rewarded. renew so shocking me, filed for bankruptcy in february 2024. just days before the announcement renew, so told dw, they were recycling far below capacity. concession brands were hesitant to fully commit to recycle materials. we could be producing a lot more. tricia kerry is renew sells chief commercial officer. many of the brands have goals set for circularity,
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a reduction traceability waterfalls, uh, you know, variety. so it's, we are a solution to their goals. it's how quickly do they want to be able to achieve those renew. so partnered with brands like levi has to recycle production waste and include circulars in their products. h and then became a shareholder in 2017. it wasn't enough to make the plant profitable in its 1st year renew, so called their bankruptcy, a testament to the lack of leadership in necessary pace, of change in the fashion industry, renew, soul struggles. highlight the challenges facing recyclers. it has been something that has shown most of us we're getting us has been a really to fix task. theresa dominic research that sustainability management at u . c. l. existing business models in which most of fashion brands are messed it. they don't really have 40 initiatives night when you sell the did really while the degree 80 to be able to make it well
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recycled materials, meaning less reliance on water hungry cotton or oil based synthetics. they're currently more expensive. the challenges scale. the challenge is really getting it out into the world in a way and at a price point that can compete with version fibers. and so we're at a key inflection point. now. mechanical recycling has gained the limited foothold in the last decade in innovation on the chemical side means there are lots of companies racing to scale up, but it's even profitability before widespread adoption is clearly a challenge. maybe you'd also say that we need to be more um, support from government and public bodies to make these things where it could be waiting on purely based on its base disruption. they might not work and assist them that best i have the conditions we might need
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to have those by it is through the 1st stages of the development. it's not just about getting the recycling technology right. entire sprawling supply chains have to be adapted to accommodate new materials. waste needs to be seamlessly collected, sorted and processed in producers and consumers, all need to get on board. all of this requires half the investment. an estimated 7000000000 euros would be needed to scale up recycling, hit 20 percent of text or waste in europe by 2030. and while there's plenty of vc cash moving in to be started, renew saw shows a profit upsets passing industry won't recycle out of the kindness of its heart. there isn't enough push from the legislation side to force the industry to actually adopt these materials. so not the investigation require forcing, but if it's going to be more expensive material, if it's a transition with the houses of the supplies,
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the thing is naisha. with all the brands they decided across the board. it really does is a function of information. so have them having access to everything, which is not easily done until legislation usually takes that o. d, u has mandated that by 2025 member countries begin collecting text always separately, just like they do with paper, metal, plastic and glass, which should improve on the 22 percent of ways that's currently gathered. mirroring proposed legislation in the u. s. u is also molding a rule that requires producers to pay for the processing of their tech style. and we just we have to ensure that these laws don't just charge the producers for one portion of that puzzle. like just collection. it has to also facilitate the infrastructure for both reuse and recycling and the innovation around that. as it stands, recycling is in profit and the state actors could also set the tone by adopting
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targets themselves, recycling for recycling. so it gives the noisiest way to go broke really quickly. um, you know, because everybody wants you to recycle. everybody wants you to solve the consumption built. but for us to be successful as a recycler, we have to have committee that takes and that's where government and private enterprise has a role to apply in saying, the government, the ticket is very large, procures of products. 70 percent of text or recycling is currently mechanical, but that looks likely to change things to all the new chemical recycling companies . i'm a see really boosting or recycling rates depends on changing the industry, the whole infrastructure, not just adding a couple of new technologies. things are currently so diary that recycling just 10 percent of global text always seems nearly utopian. and this will still just be a drop in the bucket if we keep producing and singing amounts of clothing. which
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depressing spoiler alert is projected to actually increase in the coming years. recycling is the only one part of the problem of a current consumption backend and cannot continue if you want to move to what is the most sustainable of industry. there is a huge amount of, of production in the industry and, or whoever is responsible for that. it's just a lot of the debate around that. bottom line is that a little production needs to, to, to, to use that 100000000000 garments we produce each year, means 14 for everyone in the world. if we can convince fashion victims to stop buying their body weight, including at least we can insure that as much as possible of what they purchase is recycled. well, i've done my part by having 0 pass and sense and walking around in iraqi or t shirts. but what do you think can do recycling technologies help save the textile
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industry? or is it totally down to us consumers? thanks a lot and don't forget to subscribe. we've got new videos for you. every friday. the and the wings this of prosperity, luxembourg looks something is wrong behind the sheik facade, housing is affordable for many poverty, and homelessness are rapidly growing. and n t o is trying to help with politicians are standing by and doing nothing. poverty and europe's wealthiest country. close out next on d w,
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we say they're about never giving up every weekend on d. w. to sleep, swear me and others who would use it was shown suicide. we've never had this many people before. it's coming for me. i feel like donkey hotel fighting windmills and places where i cook, alexandra exxon's, a line looks after people living on the margins of society. yep. so, but i hear a lot of people say they feel bothered by the side of beckers. so how is that possible and that's fine. but what bothers me is that we allow this people sleeping outside and sub 0 temperatures from quite what alexandra has joined the fight
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against luck. some birds new.

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