it's hard to believe that just a few months ago the first wave of covid-19 had emptied the streets of naples and italy was in lockdown. thankfully, i've arrived during a brief moment of normality. restaurants are open and masks are not required outside. and we'll be sticking to the local rules. napoli is a truly thrilling city. the second you arrive you're

engulfed by a magnificent chaos. and there's no point in fighting it. people here do things their own way. take the energy of new york, mix in the gritty elegance of new orleans, add 3,000 years of history, and cook it all up in the heat of the world's most famous volcano. that is napoli. i'm stanley tucci. i'm italian on both sides and i'm traveling across italy to discover how the food in each of this country's 20 regions is as unique as the people and their past. >> in the south we are very used to -- >> this place may be looked down on. but the people who live in this region have their own way of doing things. >> for me this is our philosophy. this is our tradition. >> they've given the world its

favorite food. just don't forget where it was invented . if pizza was going to be born anywhere, it would be here in naples. the city is hot, fast, and a feast for the senses. nape goes is the unofficial capital of the italian south and is even older than rome. it's a region of volcanic landscapes, magical islands, and the world famous coast. the southern sun nurtures tomatoes that are the envy of the world. out in the hills, buffalo produce the milk for the finest

mozzarella. but pizza wasn't born in the lush hills. it came from the darkest, poorest streets of naples. and its story combines two of italy's favorite subjects -- food and death. >> italy's historic volcano explodes into the most fearsome and devastating eruption. at least once in every century. >> the volcano is sort of an ever present threat isn't it? >> it is. because it is on the landscape. you always watch it. you always have it in your mind and in your eyes. >> this professor is one of the 3 million residents who live in the shadow of the mighty volcano. >> people are obsessed by the possibility of dying because there is a volcano, because there are earthquakes. >> yes. >> there are epidemics. >> yes. >> so it is very hard for them. >> life can be tough in this

volatile city. it's no wonder everywhere you go in naples you see hand made shrines, keeping a light shining for loved ones who have died. this is all over the city you see this. >> yes. they are included in the architecture of the city. you know, these are kind of temples of memory. >> right. >> you remember the people of your family or your friends especially young people who died. >> coming from a southern italian family, death was always talked about. i remember my grandmother used to call my mother. my mother would pick up the phone and she'd say -- >> you know who died? >> exactly! that's what it was. >> my grandma did the same. it was also a way for feeling alive. >> elizabetta is showing me the historic part of the city. for hundreds of years the poorest people of naples were packed into these narrow streets. terrible sanitation meant your life could be snatched from you at any moment by the brutal

epidemic of their age -- cholera. >> people really got scared. >> right. >> because it was an epidemic like more or less the covid-19 virus. >> yes. >> so you could transmit it very easily. >> right, right. >> cholera was spread by water and by food. so people here cooked pieces of bread in hot oil. so the frying is simpler. >> it's simpler. it's easy. you can get a very good point of hygiene because frying really sterilizes everything. >> it was probably one of the few times in life that frying something might actually have been healthy for you. >> so this is where we're going to get fried pizza? all right. [ speaking in other language ]

>> okay. pizza, ricotta. >> you know, since a century her family is doing this. >> for a century. >> for a century. >> these streets were once full of places like this. but fernanda is now the last of an historic lineage. >> it all puffs up. doesn't it? >> it's beautiful. all right.

than k you. ready? fernanda -- [ speaking in italian ] >> this delicious pocket of history was pizza before pizza was pizza. with the pork and the ricotta. >> it is very tasty. >> as we walk off some of those calories, elizabetta tells me how pizza was born in these streets from quite unpromising beginnings. >> mostly they were selling bread with a little bit of fat on it, sometimes pepper, because people were really poor. then at a certain point, people here invented pizza. but for many years it was just a

k neo politan dish. >> cholera played such a role. >> for centuries. >> thankfully for us by the late 19th century the italian prejudice against naples and its food began to change and we are going to the place where according to legend in 1889 the italian queen ordered a pizza that went on to bear her name, the margarita. do you make pizza at home ever? >> in naples it is almost forbidden. >> no point. >> the only problem was during lockdown all the pizzerias were closed. that was really bad. the first day after the lockdown, 60,000 pizzas were made, the same day. >> really. >> yes. they were not sufficient because everybody wanted a pizza. >> they were so desperate. >> first the pizza and then the vaccine. >> in the streets of naples pizza grew out of one pandemic and sustained the city through another.

what was born in a place consumed by death, is now a food the entire world finds life affirming. >> stanley tucci "searching for italy" brought to you by fisher investments. clearly different money management. (naj) but not for your clients. that's why we're a fiduciary, obligated to put clients first. (money manager) so, what do you provide? cookie cutter portfolios? (naj) nope, we tailor portfolios to our client's needs. (money manager) but you do sell investments that earn you high commissions, right? (naj) we don't have those. (money manager) so what's in it for you? (naj) our fees are structured so we do better when you do better. at fisher investments we're clearly different. (sam) gamers! he who is good for making excuses is seldom good for anything else. take fuzzywuzzy28. blamin' losses on a laggy network. only one or two. verizon 5g ultra wideband is here, the fastest 5g in the world,

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like the way all these other commercials do. sh-yeah, that's really sad. we'd never shamelessly rely on a celebrity cameo. right cardi b? yeah! eat local! (giggles) ♪ local eats, wayne's world, yummy. ♪ tree in this city of pizza makers there is a man whose reputation towers over the town like vesuvius. he wrote the globally recognized standards on making the best

neopolitan pizza in the world and was the first ever to be recognized by the michelin guide. the only thing he loves more than pizza is naples, itself. [ speaking in italian ] before he makes me a pizza the maestro needs to go shopping. when you're here, who needs a store when you can go straight to the source? buffalo were brought to work the southern italian land by arab conquerors almost a thousand years ago. and early each morning, their milk is turned into the finest

mozzarella. this masked man is acknowledged as one of the greatest cheese makers in italy. once this morning's collection of buffalo milk is heated, he separates out the curds and the whey. the curds are chopped and boiling water is added. the result is incredible. >> it's like he's a magician. you know what i mean? >> in italian, the word means to cut off. this ancient process gives the cheese its name. >> mozzarella. >> the mozzarella then rests in a salt bath for a few hours.

unlike other cheeses, which get better with age, mozzarella is best eaten fresh. which is great news for me. >> oh, my god. >> so if you're going to make the greatest pizza in naples, once you have the best mozzarella you need the perfect tomato. there is a place whose name is whispered in awe by pizza fans everywhere from brooklyn to bangkok and enzo is taking me there. as a pizza lover, i only ever

buy cans of san marzano tomatoes and now i'm heading to the promised land although i hadn't quite expected it to be a small farm under a freeway. we're meeting enzo's special supplier, uncle vincenzo. behind his rusty gates i am reminded here in italy treasures are to be found in the most unlikely locations . >> i've even san marzano tomatoes all around the world, but the bright, balanced flavor

of these is like nothing i've ever tasted. >> yeah, i know. impossible.

>> variety is -- varieties using the san marzano name are everywhere from new jersey to new zealand but only the tomatoes here are fed by the nutrient rich soil by our old friend looming on the horizon. >> after our little shopping trip, we're back in the city and, finally, finally the maestro is making a pizza for me.

mass produced pizza brands always add sugar, fat, and flavoring. but in napoli it's just water, flour, salt, yeast, and lot of skill. the crushed san marzanos from uncle vincenzo go on first. next the creamy nuggets of mozzarella to counteract the sweet sharpness of the tomatoes. and a final flourish. to add saltness and fragrance. and then in a matter of moments, food magic happens.

>> oh, my god. yum, that's delicious. perfect. perfect. pizza making is one tradition we all hope will never die out and that naples will always keep the flame of pure, simple perfection burning.

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>> so this isn't what it looks like. let me explain. in this city it sometimes seems like everyone is making up their own rules but somehow the place

hangs together. i'm meeting the man who tries to keep some order here, chief of the municipal police. in true neopolitan style he wants to explain how it works over a coffee. the captain orders three coffees for the two of us. i figure he just really likes coffee. but paying for one extra is actually a hugely important tradition here in naples. it's called suspended coffee. when a person in need shows up the coffee seller gives them a free drink that their fellow citizen paid for earlier. >> cheers.

that's nice. >> the people of naples have unofficial ways of helping each other out that go back centuries. they suspend essentials like coffee, food, and even toys for families that can't afford them. campania is the second poorest region in italy, and community help is the only safety net some people have. when that fails the powerful mafia is only too ready to swoop in. >> poverty and crime has always been part of life in the city.

but in the 1960s an experiment to improve things went badly wrong. five miles from the city center, a new world was built. it was called scampia. the poorest neopolitans were moved out of the dark slums into futuristic new homes, but the dream quickly turned into a nightmare. the place had neither jobs nor transport, and people here were trapped. camorra crime gangs stepped in where the state had failed. drugs were sold on the streets and things got so bad even the police stayed away. ordinary residents were caught in the middle. more recently a new chapter in the neighborhood's history began when hundreds of nomadic travelers arrived. >> stanley. >> samantha. >> they came from eastern europe and set up camp under a freeway here.

they sought a better life in italy and have made their home here despite no access to running water or electricity . all across this neighborhood thousands of people like samantha saw their lives going to waste, unfairly labeled as criminals while the authorities turned their backs. still, this is napoli and people look out for each other in the most creative ways. >> so the kitchen was a very powerful instrument to overcome stereotypes but also create work. >> right. >> we decided to make a smaller

revolution through the kitchen. >> in a hut on the edge of scampia local activist emma and her friends realized they had a powerful community, each with unique food traditions, and decided to take matters into their own hands. >> in the south we are very used to fight with or without the institution. this is a very south italian quality. >> the small idea grew into something astonishing. the hut is long gone. it is now a restaurant and catering company called chiku based in a large, disused building here. samantha, whom i met over at the romani camp, got a job as a cook here. her recipes proved so popular they now star on the menu.

customers now come to scam pia from across the city to taste the delicious combination of food they create here. this place receives no government help, but the success of the social enterprise allows them to also offer child care and education to all the residents of scampia. this neighborhood still has huge problems, but in the face of unimaginable bleakness, the

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the greatest joy of traveling is sometimes you discover a place by chance and it winds up staying with you for the rest of your life. 14 years ago my late wife kate and i took a ferry from naples to the island just an hour away. one night we went to a family run restaurant where they served food we never expected to have on an island in the gulf of naples. i tried to come back whenever i'm lucky enough to have the chance. and the family's eldest, sylvia, is meeting me at the dock. >> welcome. >> nice to see you. >> yes. now we start the adventure. are you ready? >> i'm ready. >> now, you may well be thinking, time for a beautiful drive along the coast for some tasty seafood. but no. this restaurant stands defiantly away from the sea side crowds. through the woods and half way up a mountain.

this is one of a handful of volcanic islands just off of naples. tourists started coming here in the '60s to enjoy the thermal waters. but before that it was pirates and foreign armies washing up on the shore. so island families chose to live up in the safety of the mountains. instead of catching fish, they caught rabbit. the place is overrun with them. this is famous across italy. in the states we rarely eat rabbit but the delicious, lean meat draws the crowds up here to this secluded restaurant. but before we can eat it -- do you want me to open this? >> yes, please. >> we have to catch it.

above the restaurant, wild rabbits are caught with an ingenious and sustainable method the islanders have been using for centuries. a pit is dug close to the rabbit hole and tasty food is thrown down to tempt them out. fragrant leaves and berries are specially selected to add flavor to the rabbit's meat. >> the taste comes through into the meat. >> then all you've got to do is hop in, catch one, and i'll spare you the rest. sylvia's little brother augustino runs the kitchen. he's brilliant at bringing out the best flavors from the wild game here. he's worked at some of the finest restaurants in new york and london. but he came home to apply his skills to traditional, rustic cooking. the last time i saw him i ran into him on the streets of new york. he was in a bad way. i'm kidding. that was a long time ago now.

>> yes, yes. >> but i love rabbit. i cook it at home a lot. the thing about rabbit -- >> no, no. this rabbit is wild. okay. we put olive oil. garlic. okay. >> the juice. i like that you put the garlic in as a whole. >> yeah. now white wine. >> ah. beautiful. >> it's very simple. tomato, herbs, garlic, white wine, olive oil. >> knowing how to make the best of what you have is vital up here. while the rabbit cooks, i notice

something i've never seen before. the nona of the family, loretta, is showing her grandchildren how to tie tomatoes to local vines . today the restaurant is closed, but i'm honored to be invited to family lunch. this is the first time the family has come together since their father passed away earlier this year during the lockdown. it's an emotional time, but also one of celebration. oh, my god! as delicious as the food is, traditional cooking like this also tells you the story of a place -- how they lived and what was important to them.

for as long as anyone can remember, there's been a strict hierarchy to how ischia's rabbit is served. >> well you're very kind. thank you. >> sadly, in this traditional hierarchy, the mother of the father is left with the bony neck and skull.

traditional food like this connects us and makes us part of a bigger story. that's why, even today, families across ischia sit down every sunday to enjoy a rabbit and a pot together. i'm an actor, writer, director, and i broke the internet with a single cocktail. i'm stanley tucci, and i'm bringing the amazing food and culture of italy to cnn. >> announcer: "stanley tucci: searching for italy." and in an emergency, they need a network that puts them first. that connects them to technology, to each other, and to other agencies. that's why at&t built firstnet with and for first responders the emergency response network authorized by congress.

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sfx: [sounds of children laughing and running, for 175 years, lifnew york lifeard] sfx:has been helpingdren laughipeople actning, on their love. so they can look back and say, "we did good." (naj) at fisher investments, we do things differently and other money managers don't understand why. (money manager) because our way works great for us! (naj) but not for your clients. that's why we're a fiduciary, obligated to put clients first. (money manager) so, what do you provide? cookie cutter portfolios? (naj) nope, we tailor portfolios to our client's needs. (money manager) but you do sell investments that earn you high commissions, right? (naj) we don't have those. (money manager) so what's in it for you? (naj) our fees are structured so we do better when you do better. at fisher investments we're clearly different.

as if the awe inspiring majesty of the vesuvius and volcanic islands are not enough, campania has one final crowning glory. just a half hour outside of naples some of the most fabled landscape on earth begins. it is the backdrop for a thousand romantic movies and once in a lifetime vacations. and home to a restaurant where i had a simple zuccini and pasta dish that honestly changed my life. i've been longing to come back. the family had agreed to show me how it's done. my wife has come to join me. and we are in one of the most beautiful places in the world. what could possibly go wrong?

okay. so there is this once in a decade storm forecast and everyone is taking shelter. that doesn't stop the morning delivery coming down from the family's farm up in the hills. every morsel grown by the father. pride of place this season is the star of my favorite dish. zuccini. the first time i had this dish i insinuated myself into the kitchen to weedle out the recipe from his daughter antonia who runs the place. we now make it at home every week but it is never as good. the chef is giving me a master class. my wife felicity has even flown in to make sure we get it right. >> we came here two years ago. this is the reason we're in this restaurant. >> we have plaed it every day since. >> basically, practically every day. >> it's a favorite. amazing. >> we love this dish.

>> everybody always thinks there is garlic in it or onion. just the sweetness of the zuccini >> i know. wait. he put it in. >> we missed it. we are so unprofessional. >> the chopped zuccini are fried in sun flower oil and that's our first mistake. we need about three gallons more than we've been using at home. >> it is frustrating to see him do it like this with such ease when we have been laboriously frying them in a small vessel. >> hours. literally hours u. >> once fried, tomaso leaves it overnight to soften up. >> i feel like we've been doing a lot wrong. >> we've been doing it all wrong. >> tomaso heats up the zuccini.

>> look at that amazing -- >> that's beautiful. >> finally, a whole ingredient they didn't even tell us about. >> butter. i asked your sister two years ago. i said, do they put butter? where is antonia? >> yes, a little bit of butter. >> you didn't tell me that. i'm so upset. no, no! i won't hold it against you. >> oh, my god. look at that. >> okay. maybe it wasn't deliberate but then why wouldn't you want to keep a recipe this good to yourself? >> people come from all around the world just for that. >> for that. that's crazy. >> this is too exciting. >> amazing. >> oh, my god. look at that.

>> 20 minutes of ecstasy. >> even better than i remember. such a simple dish. you make it so beautifully. it's just one of the best things i've ever had in my life. >> thank you so much. >> antonia, thank you so much. thank you. look at the wind. >> the sea is almost black as well. >> we'll just be inside eating. >> any other day, the sun-drenched spot is buzzing with diners thrilled to be eating in one of the most beautiful places on earth. but as the storm clouds roll in for the first time this year, every single one of the expected 300 customers today has canceled. by evening, felicity, the film crew, and i are the only guests. rather than allow all this incredible food to go to waste, they're making a feast for all

the brave souls still here. while the kitchen team . while the team works serene any, the film crew helped me capture some views of the famous amalfi coast you won't normally see on a postcard. >> isn't it so gorgeous? >> a tail thail the size of ama lemons just came down. holy -- you know, i've had dreams about having this place all to myself, being brought platters of beans, mushrooms and olives from the family farm, fried squid, duke scene any flowers but i didn't expect it to be in quite these

circumstances. here nature can be cruel, but it also can be very kind indeed. ♪ ♪ aficionado. i'm a fashionista. sneakerhead. metalhead. me? gearhead. ♪ ♪ audiophile. gamer. i'm a foodie. woo! i'm whatever this is. obsession has many names. this is ours. the new lexus is. all in on the sport sedan. woohoohoohoohoohoo! experience amazing at your lexus dealer.

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the storm has passed. the natural order has been restored, and it's another heavenly day here on the amalfi coast. i've traveled along to the little town of venuri, known for one of the most beloved desserts in italy, a blast of southern sunshine in a creamy light cake. it's called delice a lemlemoni. and to make it, you have to head for the hills. [ speaking italian ] >> up in the lemon groves above minori, i'm meeting the man who introduced the unique amalfie lemons to the dessert, and game one of the most famous pastry

chefs in italy, sal. >> these lucky lemons are an ancient hybrid of bitter and sweet citrus fruits, and the locals put them in everything they can. >> cheers. grazie. >> we head down to sal's shop on the shore, where every year thousands of tourists take a break from the natural wonders of the coast to gasp at some man made culinary marvels.

at a time when italian desserts were dominated by northern and french creations, sal put the south of italy firmly on the map by capturing the essence of this place in one particular cake, lemon delight. so we know where the lemons come from, but how do you get the delight? >> jesus, all right. of course, cream. three creams, in fact. and for good measure, you fill the cake with cream. you take it right in. >> si. >> and when the creams are mixed?

you add more cream and more cream. >> whoa. >> and more cream. a splash of lemon liqueur. >> oh my god. but how does he get that delicate, smooth coating? no. really? i thought you were going to do something incredibly elegant. a little swirl of cream to finish and a pinch of amalfie lemon zest. >> okay. okay.

it's okay, okay, okay. >> okay. >> and i love lemon. i love lemon, but that's li like -- ♪ >> well, we've had coffee and now dessert. so what better way to end my journey to campana with a glass of local limoncello, made with amalfie lemons, of course. >> okay. >> okay. >> i'm sure that most of us have had a shot or three of this with friends. probably after gorging on campagna's other great contribution to the world, pizza. wherever we are, the food of this place can't help but bring

us together. >> cheers. chin chin. america is at a reckoning. for more than 250 years we have battled racial injustice and political division. in times of crisis, we look to the past for examples of bold leadership. >> lincoln, of course, is the most admired american president. >> if there is anyone who lived, breathed and walked the basic ideas around which